Sunday 3/12/95
Alice, John, Dan, and Tom left New Jersey at 9:30 in the morning
and arrived in St. Thomas at 4pm to begin a 10 day bare boat charter on
the 34 foot sailing yacht "Windi". A 5 mile cab brought us to the
Ramada Hotel in Yacht Haven. Our room overlooked the sea plane
dock and the ocean liners that docked in the harbor in Charlotte
Amalie. We walked into town for dinner at the Green House
Restaurant, and then took a cab back to the hotel.
Monday 3/13/95
A 6 mile cab ride brought us to the American Yacht
Harbor in Red Hook where we began preparations to board Windi.
Groceries were purchased, snorkel gear rented, and we discussed
the weather with Jim, Bob, and Carmon, at Ocean Incentives Yacht
Charters. The wind was from the north at 25 knots and the seas
were heavy on the northern end of St John. We decided on advice
from the local sailors to change our plans and head for the south
side of St John instead of heading up the north side and Jost Van Dyke.
It was 2pm before we began to motor out of the
harbor, and before going far, the engine stalled leaving us disabled in
the middle of the harbor. We averted disaster by quickly dropping
anchor. I called for help from Ocean Incentives on our radio and they
found the problem to be a vapor lock in the gas line. They had replaced
the fuel filter and that caused the problem. It was 2:45 before we got
under way again. We anchored in Rendezvous Bay, on the south side of St
John at 5pm. We cooked the salmon stakes that Alice brought from New
Jersey on the Hibachi grill that attaches to the stern of the boat.
Stir fried
vegetables and white wine made it an excellent meal that we all enjoyed.
Tuesday 3/14/95
We sailed up the south side of St John in heavy
seas. It was clearly a good move to avoid the northern passage which
was much worse. We sailed across Sir Francis Drake Channel and
into Rhode Harbor in Tortola, (British Virgin Islands), to clear
customs. It took almost 2 hours and we found out that Rhode Town
is the slowest place of all for customs. We started back across
Sir Francis Drake Channel hoping to anchor at the Peter Island
Yacht Club. However when I made radio contact with them, they
told us there was no room there. Since it was getting late, I used the
radio to reserve a slip at Tropic Isle Marina in Maya Cove,
Tortola. This gave us a safe haven for the night with electricity, and
a clear shot at Virgin Gorda for the next day. There was not much to do
in Maya Cove but there was a bar there. Dan volunteered to cook chicken
for dinner. Rum drinks were available at the bar and went for a walk
after dinner. We met a wild donkey on the road and he followed us until
he was sure we had no food for him.
Wednesday 3/15/95
After cold showers on shore, we set sail for Virgin
Gorda and went directly to The Baths. A mooring was available allowing
us to stay there most of the day. The snorkeling was great, there were
caves to explore, and Tom hiked and sketched many of the builgings. It
was about 4:30 when we left to get a slip in Yacht Harbor. They have
hundreds of slips there and I was not worried about getting one. As it
turned out, we got the last one! It was kind of beat up with loose
planks on the walkway. When I hooked up the electricity on the pier, it
did not work. Our cord was not long enough to reach the next socket
located across the pier unless we turned the boat around and backed
into the slip. Able crew that we are, we managed this complex manover
without a hitch. This allowed us to hook up and at the same time
avoided the loose planks on the pier. The slip was close to shore and
turned out great once we got settled.
Thursday 3/16/95
Dan made arrangements to rent a jeep to tour the
island with Tom while Alice and I sail north to Gorda Sound. Before we
left, we took a long walk. We came across a herd of goats, and passed a
number of restaurants and ice cream parlors outside the marina.
These will be remembered for next time. We saw a new church, high
on a hill overlooking the harbor. We walked up a steep cement path to
get to it and found out it is a Catholic church. The pastor, Fr Jack
White, has spent the last 18 years in the Islands at different
parishes. He presided over the building of this one and got an Italian
architect from Milan to design the church free of charge. He is
building a community center at the base of the hill and it is still
under construction. Fr White is almost 80 years old and speaks with a
strong Irish accent.
Dan and Tom took off in their jeep to tour the
island, and Alice and I set sail for Gorda Sound on the north end of
Virgin Gorda. The wind was light and we had a peaceful sail. We got a
mooring near Pusser's Restaurant and Bar for $13.00. It included a free
shower, (cold), and a free bottle of Pussers rum. We met the boys at
5pm and Dan took us for a ride to the high spots on the island. We
could see all the islands including St Croix from there.
Friday 3/17/95
We left Gorda Sound early and sailed south, to
Norman Island. This was a long sail, (about 20 miles), but we got there
early enough to get a good anchorage in the Bight. This is the largest
harbor on the island and the most protected. We took the dingy to
the caves and snorkeled there. The afternoon sun lit up the water and
it was the best time to snorkel there.
Before we anchored there, I called ahead on the
radio to reserve dinner on the William Thornton, a ship/restaurant that
is anchored in the Bight. We enjoyed sea food, ribs, and rum drinks
there.
Saturday 3/18/95
We left the Bight and set sail for the island of
Jost Van Dyke. We anchored in Great Harbor and went ashore. Tom and Dan
had lunch at a bar on the beach, and Alice and I discovered Christine's
Bakery. I had a flying fish sandwich there on fresh baked bread, and
Alice had a vegetable crepe made with local vegetables. We bought a
loaf of fresh bread too. Dan and Tom hiked to White Bay while Alice and
I went by dingy. We snorkeled there and walked on the long white beach.
We all returned by dingy and had dinner on the boat. The big attraction
on Jost Van Dyke is the nightly party at Foxy's Bar. However we were
all too tired to go! Instead we went to bed early and listened to the music emanating from Foxy's.
Sunday 3/19/95
It was time for Dan and Tom to return home. Their
flight was at 2:30 pm from St Thomas. We decided it would be best for
them to take the ferry from Jost Van Dyke to Red Hook while Alice and I
sailed to Sophers Hole on Tortola. They left on the ferry at 9:30 and
we waved good bye to them. As we were walking off the pier however, I
noticed the ferry turn around and start back to the pier. When they got
back, they put Tom and Dan off on the pier and left. They would not
take them back to the US islands because they did not have passports or
other suitable identification. What now? We hurried back to our boat
and set sail for Cruz Bay on St John. There was some thought of taking
them directly to Red Hook but this was in clear violation of US and
British emigration laws and we were warned specifically against it with
the threat of fines in the thousands of dollars if caught. Would Dan
and Tom be allowed to re-enter the US or would they be doomed to stay
out. There was a bit of panic in our minds as we imagined theworst.
Fortunately, it was a down wind sail and we managed to anchor in Cruz
Bay before noon. The young lady in customs removed Dan and Tom from our
manifest without even checking their identification and they
left on the noon ferry for Re Hook in plenty of time to catch their
2:30 flight. Alice and I stayed in Cruz Bay for a while and had lunch
at Pussers. I remembered that it was Joe's birthday and called him to
wish him Happy Birthday. We finally set sail for Sophers Hole on
the west end of Tortola. We took a mooring there and toured the
shops before returning to our boat.
Monday 3/20/95
We took on fresh water, ice, and food before we left
Sophers Hole, and then set sail for Leinster Bay on the north shore of
St John. We took the dingy out to Water Melon Cay, (one of Alice's
favorites), and snorkeled all the way around it. This was our time
alone and wespent it relaxing in the sun without a lot of activity.
Tuesday 3/21/95
We left Leinster Bay and sailed back to Cruz Bay. We
checked back into the US so we would not have to do it tomorrow. Alice
spent some time shopping in the fancy shops there while I watched and
listened to the local people and the water front activity. Then we
sailed back to the north side of St John and anchored in Hawks Nest
Bay. We took the dingy to the beach and hiked along the beach road to
the ruins of a sugar mill. When we got there we realized we could have
taken the dingy there, but the walk was fun anyway. We returned to our
boat, and ended our last full day of this vacation with a good meal
andsome star gazing.
Wednesday 3/22/95
We left Hawks Nest Bay about 10 am and sailed
directly to Red Hook to return the boat and make our way back home. The
trip home was not without incident in spite of us leaving plenty of
time. Our flight to San Juan was late and we missed our connecting
flight to NJ. We managed to get onto a Continental flight but our
luggage didn't. We came into the C terminal instead of the A terminal
and Dan did a great job of finding us. Sailing seems to be much more
reliable. Our luggage caught up to us Thursday evening, and that ended
one of the most exciting and enjoyable vacations I ever had.
Cost Breakdown:
2114 34 foot Oday, (WINDI) for 10 days
1050 Airfare for 3
148 Hotel for 1 night in St Thomas
216 Meals out
323 Food for 4
130 Customs fees for 4
90 Moorings and slips
78 Snorkel gear for 2
60 Taxies
17 Diesil fuel for the boat
50 Airport parking
30 Ice, Water, Misc supplies for the boat
35 Cat sitter
75 Underwater camera, film, prints
4416 Total